DEHEN KNITTING COMPANY
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Made in Portland, Oregon USA since 1920
Founded by William Peter Dehen in 1920, Dehen Knitting Company produces classic and traditional U.S. heavyweight apparel. Keeping true to our humble yet pioneering beginnings in Portland, Oregon, we are a family business known for long-lasting quality, workmanship and rugged styling.
In the 1920's we began knitting varsity and collegiate sweaters for student athletes. In the 30's we started supplying local motorcycle clubs with riding sweaters. In the 50's we added the Varsity Jacket to our repertoire, making each jacket by hand to the specification of each individual lucky enough to letter in his or her sport.
Today, well into our tenth decade, Dehen continues a tradition of heavy duty, quality manufacturing while actually producing our goods in Portland. Value is built into every garment that Dehen makes.
Over the last 90 plus years there have been many changes, not the least of which was the pressure to move our manufacturing outside the United States. Even when times got tough, not once did we flinch in our approach and commitment. We are proud of our company, our employees and our continued resilience over so many years in business. We refuse to compromise on the methods and ideals honed over the past 96 years, while accepting the challenge to keep moving forward. Launched in 2011 our Dehen 1920 line combines the best of our past with an eye on the future.
We hope to share with you the “Heavy Duty, Old School Truth” that is Dehen 1920.
Dehen的学院夹克其实是在CHH上看到某位会员的开箱之后了解到这个品牌的,有官网,可以直接购买,但不知道能否直接邮寄到国内.
其实只要了解学院夹克的朋友一看到Dehen的风格就会立刻被吸引住,那种很old school风格的版型绝对就是学院夹克爱好者必入的品牌,下面这些截图源自于官网,设备一看就有些年头,工艺和材料都追求原汁原味,最重要的是我发现,虽然这是个美国货,但版型亚洲人完全可以驾驭,胸围一点不夸张.
当然Dehen不光光只有学院夹克,一些很基本款的毛衣,衬衫,外套,也都是非常经典的款式,大家也可以顺便一同看看.
正经的,开箱来了.标准款学院夹克,配色有点点绿.
这种螺纹的卷领很舒服,保暖性很好,但对螺纹的材料要求很高,化纤成分多了呢,扎皮肤,纯羊毛呢,容易起球,Dehen的说法是100%纯羊毛,我个人感觉应该不是,不然起球是必然的.
口袋和袖子用的是皮料,这也是学院夹克的一种风格,皮革耐用性好,但弹性差,像我喜欢开车的有时候就会觉得这种皮袖子略微影响手臂的活动区域.
下摆处也用了羊毛的罗纹布收口.
袖口的螺纹布,袖口一般有两种,一种是下图这样,另一种是故意做长然后反折,后者的好处是可以适应不同长度手臂的客户,长了多少翻多少上去.
背面简简单单.
袖口为了不影响活动,所以背面有拼块,这样就可以把手肘区域的宽度适当放大一些.
螺纹布刚刚也提到了,要做好并不简单,弹性,混率,起球问题,厚度等等,CHH站服上的螺纹面料也经过了反复好几次的尝试最后才终于稳定下来,这种事情也只有做衣服的人才会明白.
图片就能看得出Dehen的螺纹布厚度很可以,所以在保暖是舒适性上也都做到了很好的权衡.
大身面料用的是24oz Pendleton 100%纯羊毛,我特意搜了一下,Pendleton似乎也是一家美国羊毛材料供应商,可以追溯到1863年,乖乖,这是当年英国佬第一批派送到美国的殖民者吧...但我自己摸下来吧,这个羊毛厚实度没问题,但手感并不那么细腻,还是略粗的,所以称不上是高档货,真正高档的羊毛料摸上去是可以做到非常细腻,如果满分10分的话,Dehen用的这个羊毛料我大概可以给6~7分,不能再多,甚至我个人觉得还不如一些日本的小众品牌用的羊毛料来的好.至于皮革,应该是牛皮,但也不是上等货色,厚度同样没问题,但皮革粗,光泽度差,同样10分满分的话,我也只能给个6分左右,不能再多.
五金材料看不到供应商的Logo,天晓得是谁家供应的.
内插袋,很随意地缝纫了上去,然后内衬面料吧,有些cheap的味道,不够档次,应该就是廉价面料了.
Made in USA,细节的确称不上精细,但如果到手没有发现什么大问题的话,那就算是很合格的美国货了.
吊牌,我188cm 79kg左右,穿L码正好,回头再给大家补上身照.
其它一些细节,这大概是我买过还算品质最好的美国货了吧...
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310112100042806
发表于 2018-11-1 18:07
发表于 2018-11-1 20:29
楼主
发表于 2018-11-1 21:55
一直都没清洗过~就只能自己弄点皮革剂搞一搞。毛呢部分也就迁就着皮质只能拍拍灰。
